Conversation with Costume Designer Julie Weiss

Two-time Oscar nominee and Emmy-winning costume designer Julie Weiss embodies pure passion. Thoughtful, sincere, serious and real are the exact words I choose to describe one of Hollywood’s most talented artists. Ms. Weiss is the prophetic and imaginative designer behind the clothes worn in Steel Magnolias, Twelve Monkeys, Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, American Beauty, Frida, and close to 50 other films. Her most recent work may be seen in the film Hitchcock. Instead of publishing a straightforward Q&A, please indulge me as I share excerpts of my conversation with Julie, her brilliant stream of consciousness, if you will…

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“When I first knew of this project and that our producers would include Ivan Reitman, who has always accepted costume designers as storytellers, I knew this was something I wanted to be a part of. Then, I found out that Sacha Gervasi, who directed Anvil, was the Director. I knew this was going to be something I wanted to be a part of…Then I found out that Anthony Hopkins would be playing Hitchcock. Hitchcock, whose voice, silhouette, and entrance is recalled each time his collection of the finest of films are recalled. Hopkins becoming Hitchcock…I knew this was something I wanted to be a part of. I found out that Helen Mirren was going to play Alma, Hitchcock’s wife, and I knew this was something I wanted to be a part of…And then, I found out that Scarlett Johansson was going to play Janet Leigh and Toni Collette was playing Hitchcock’s assistant and Jessica Biel was playing Vera Miles and James D’Arcy was playing Norman Bates. I knew this was something I wanted to be a part of. Being a part of are golden words for all of us in this business.”

“In Hitchcock, the costumes came from everywhere. Some designed from the sketch forward, the finding of the fabrics, trim, buttons. Others came from costume houses, like Palace Costume, Western Costume, American Costume, Motion Picture Costume. Some items came from my Mother’s closet, especially her collection of scarves, which as each was unfolded, represented another year, another gift given to her on days of celebrations, birthdays and holidays.”

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“For me, costumes are nothing until they are worn by the characters. The character determines whether they are to be worn with the greatest of elegance or as a piece of clothing to keep warm. Moments of discovery belong to the actors. With this cast, the costume designer need only to sit back and watch this merger begin…to watch the fitting so carefully, to watch the reaction of the actors’ arrivals on set, to watch the direction evolve, to see the costume crew adjust the suit jacket and find the misplaced earring, all the while in the pocket of the costume designer.”

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“As costume designers, our world involves so many continual images, so much visual stimulation that memories are often crowded out, pushed aside like horse blinders, foolishly guiding us down a single road. Costume designers are like voyeurs, who luckily need clothing to proceed in their field, thus avoiding arrest.”

And finally, lovelies, Julie’s colorful wisdom and a closing thought…

“Color cost nothing. All of us have memories in black and white and in color. Some quiet, some vivid. These hues must be used carefully, sometimes strongly, sometimes meekly. A color of passion and strength that one dons in the morning might only be seen as a color at the end of the day, as a person’s daily routine takes a turn against the daily agenda of emotion.”

“The most important thing a costume designer must have is respect for the beauty of other people’s memories and how it affects their daily dress.”

Image Credits: Fox Searchlight Pictures

Note: This interview has been condensed and edited.

JBD’s Greatest Hits {2012}

Never underestimate what you can accomplish when you believe in yourself. I had a draft of a note I was thinking about posting closer to the new year, but it felt a bit heavy. Then I heard about IFB Project #75. It seemed to lighten the load when merged with my thoughts, making more sense for a style blog, yet still honoring progress. So here goes, folks. Lead with your heart. As Barneys New York pointed out, a heart-breaking break-up was the catalyst for JBD. Little did I know what awaited me as I bought the Jenny by design domain, covered in tears, sitting on the hardwood floors of an apartment I shared with my then-boyfriend. In gobs of emotional pain, I remember taking time off from work and spent my days on long walks. I stumbled into my first yoga class. It was a foreign language that became a step on a new path of existence. And then came the blogging. Oh, the blogging! Often times, life is like a river, offering portals to many opportunities. You cannot always control the juncture at which you enter an ocean, lake or sea, but you can always count on the flow of the river. You will move forward. GO FOR IT. I did, and I wouldn’t have this little round up of some of JBD’s greatest hits if I hadn’t tried. Below you’ll find a handful of notes that had some of the highest traffic this year. From frocks, fizz and fun interviews to street style and lots of love, thanks to all of you for reading…

One of the first interviews posted on JBD was my conversation with the fabulous and creative fashion designer Chris Benz.

The SPOTLIGHT section continued to be a hit as I revealed interviews with the likes of extraordinary Chef Mario Batali and local New York City gal-about-town Narell Devine.

Love flowed in and out and you all seemed to really adore this little tribute along with a real wedding in Sun Valley.

Personal tales, travelart and decor will always be a part of the blog, as will a long standing tradition of Friday’s frock and fizz.

OscarPRGirl casually tweeted about JBD after seeing this post and I realized the power of social media, single-handedly, for a new blog.

This Fall, I began personal style posts…easy street style won out. And through it all, opportunities flowed in and lifelong friendships were formed.

Jenny by design is a diary of all things full of delight. For me, that includes people, style and local places that just feel right, like Eponymy and the Sussman Brothers, because they know what’s up when it comes to life goodness.

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So there you have it, kids. If you never try, you’ll never know. xx, Jenny

Image Credit: Unknown

Spotlight on Sophie de Rakoff

London-born Sophie de Rakoff made her mark in New York over 20 years ago, writing for various publications, including Vibe and Vogue. A few years later she headed West, making Los Angeles her home. Sophie found success writing for Paper and working as a fashion stylist in the music industry. Costume design quickly became her new passion and by 2001 she had solidified herself as of one of the industry’s key players after designing Elle Woods’ wardrobe in the film Legally Blonde. The iconic Jackie O. inspired pink suit, worn by Reese Witherspoon, is currently featured in the Hollywood Costume Exhibit at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. Sophie has been nominated twice by the Costume Designer’s Guild for Excellence in Contemporary Film and was honored by Premiere Magazine and AMC as one of 2005’s “Women in Hollywood” recipients. The creative powerhouse keeps growing her garden of ingenuity. Tomorrow she debuts an exclusively curated Tastemaker Tag Sale for One Kings Lane. It was an honor to interview Ms. de Rakoff. Enjoy!

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Your career is interesting and inspiring to me. How did you get your first gig as a costume designer?

I had moved to LA from NY and was working as a stylist’s assistant, and not really taking it that seriously. My brother was dating a young  actress at the time  (well, we were all young at the time!) who was just about to start on a tiny independant film and she literally asked me to come in and meet on the film because she liked my personal sense of style  and thought I would make her look good. So I did and I did!

How did you come to collaborate on films with Reese Witherspoon? Was it by chance?

Reese and I met on Legally Blonde. It was an easy and comfortable and creative relationship right from the start. We became friends quickly and visually created an iconic character on that movie. The subsequent movies we have done together have come about because the film makers know that we have a productive relationship, and when the stars are in alignment, it ends up that we can work together again. I wouldn’t say it was a coincidence, but it has never, ever been a mandate from either of us.

Your design for the outfit Elle Woods wears in Legally Blonde 2: Red, White & Blonde is currently part of the Hollywood Costume Exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. How was it seeing your work as part of such an exciting exhibition for the field of costume design?

It was a moment of utter joy. I grew up in London and the V&A has always been one of my favorite places in the world. To have a costume included in an exhibition is an honor that tops every other piece of professional good fortune I have had. And the fact that the exhibit itself is so brilliantly presented and curated makes it even more significant for me.

Describe the process of creating Elle’s Jackie O. look.

Legally Blonde 2: Red, White & Blonde, was for me, visually, a chance to explore some specific American archetypes; one of whom was Jackie O. The pink 60’s suit was  inevitable on many levels. I studied images of Jackie O., and came up with my version of what I felt represented her style during the White House years. But it also needed to work for Elle Woods in the context of the movie and for Reese herself as a person.

Which iconic fashion designs and designers have inspired you?

In terms of fashion designers, Ossie Clarke’s designs, particularly when combined with Celia Birtwell’s prints, have always been a repeat offender in my life. I have a floating daisy print chiffon blouse framed in plexi on the wall of my office and it makes me happy every day. But it is Anne Roth’s work as a costume designer, that I came across as a child, that seriously shaped my aesthetic. Klute and Midnight Cowboy are two seminal pieces of costume design for me. I was allowed to watch very inappropriate movies as a child, and I clearly remember being enthralled, fascinated and inspired by the appearance of the actors.

Any from the exhibition at the V&A?

When I saw the Audrey Hepburn/Eliza Doolittle costume my eyes welled up. For some reason the fact that the mannequin had the gloves on and was holding a little bunch of violets literally made me cry. In terms of physical beauty and detail, the My Man Godfrey beaded gown and duster jacket is so crazy beautiful that I just stood and stared. It made me want to drown myself  in bugle beads and georgette.

When designing the look of a character in a film, how do you begin? Do you have a process you stick to each time?

Costume designers, as a rule, begin with the script. It’s that simple.  The character is on the page and then it’s up to you as a  designer to bring them to life in your world. I read, I absorb, then I obsessively hunt for images that can explain what I see in my minds eye. I don’t sketch, so I use photographic imagery as my jumping off point.

Funniest and most cherished moment as a costume designer?

Having Shirley MacLaine pat me on the head and tell me what a good costume designer I was on In Her Shoes. You really can’t get better than that.  My assistant kicked me so hard under the table that we both nearly fell over.

If you could design for anyone, who would it be for and why?

If I were King for a day, I would make Cindy Sherman let me help her create a character. She has always been my favorite photographer and across the course of her career she has embodied everything I care about in art.

You recently curated a Tastemaker Tag Sale event for One Kings Lane.  What type of items can we expect to see in the sale and can you share some of your sources? What is your favorite piece?

Photo books, accessories and art. These are things that have been revolving sources of inspiration for me for as long as I can remember. My favorite pieces are a trio of late 1960’s French modernist portraits that I found in LA at the Long Beach flea market, two hand-stitched leather dolls of Arabian tribesmen on camels (weird but true) that I found in Brick Lane in London, and an Edwardian beaver skin top hat in its leather case that I got from Ebay. Curating the OKL sale was immensely satisfying, I was able to look at old my old treasures and relive when I found them.

What are your favorite places to shop?

I have always been a diligent vintage shopper. I worked in a vintage store when I was a teenager, and when I came to the States I immediately got addicted to Sunday flea markets. Flea markets and antique stores have always been my favorite places to shop for everything: clothes, books, furniture…you name it.

What will never go out of style?

A classic black stiletto.

What accessory should every woman own?

A good pair of sunglasses.

What quality about yourself would you never want to lose?

To remember that making movies is just a job and life is short so behave as well as you can.

Images c/o Sophie de Rakoff

Note: this interview has been edited and condensed.

 

Spotlight On Eponymy

This blog was born in Brooklyn. I live in (and love) BK for many reasons, one being the good bounty of local purveyors. I shopped at Eponymy a handful of times before I introduced myself to Andrea Miller, the owner. A fellow aesthete, we immediately hit off a friendship, each calling Park Slope home. Andrea is a brilliant, bright light of a woman who has succeeded in creating a whimsical, chic and unique oasis by sewing together vintage jewelry, new fashion, clothing of the past and contemporary art. For a shop that names itself, everyone is able to take away something with personal meaning.

Was there a moment or a person that truly influenced you in taking the leap to open your own store?

There was a moment when I was cleaning out a storage room in my grandparent’s old antique shop. There were all these beautiful Victorian and Edwardian showcases but they were in really bad shape. I realized I would probably have to actually pay someone to haul them away and dump them and I couldn’t bear the thought of it. I had been working at this photo agency for about six years and although it was a great job, there wasn’t anything about it I was passionate about and I missed having a creative outlet. I got the idea to fix the old showcases up, eventually bringing them to Brooklyn where they became the foundation for the design of Eponymy. These were the pieces I grew up around in my grandparent’s shop and I sort of repurposed them to make them fit into my aesthetic. In short, I’m an impulsive, sentimental sucker.

Did you work in fashion or the vintage circles before opening the store?

Nope. I’m definitely not a “fashion girl.” I’m into aesthetics in general. I figure as long as we’re living this crazy life, it might as well look beautiful, no?  Sometimes I have existential meltdowns about what I am doing because I wonder if it is important. But history and culture wouldn’t exist without aesthetics so I’ve quickly learned to try to hyper-rationalize the doubt out of myself. And I try to make it important by doing something different with the shop. After the financial crisis I think shopping became sort of dirty to people. But it doesn’t have to be. It doesn’t all have to be cheap, mass, anonymous, quick fix, careless consumerism. It can be an experience like going to a wonderful restaurant or performance.

What is your most favorite part about owning a business?

I like that each day is a little different, sometimes drastically different. I’m not in the same chair, in the same office for eight hours a day. Mainly though, I would say it is the people I come in contact with. There are some amazing characters, like straight out of central casting, and then I’ve met people along the way who’ve become really good friends of mine, other local business owners and customers. I guess they have done studies about when people get to the end of their lives…and when asked, what is important in life, sort of “what is the meaning of life?” Without trying to get too deep, the answer is almost unanimously “other people.” I really think I’ve been lucky to meet so many different, forward thinking and wonderful people. But of course, there are always some rotten apples. When I come in contact with those people I’d have to say that my favorite part about owning my own business is that I get to take my dog pretty much everywhere!

What has been the greatest lesson learned to date?

Running a business is not easy. Really. There are so many different aspects to keeping it together – and of course I had to go and make it super difficult what with all the specific aesthetics, complicated inventory, switching of the art shows…I have a lot of respect for people who take the plunge. Every time I walk into another person’s business now, I look at it differently, with a certain level of reverence, from bodegas to restaurants and shops.

When you aren’t at Eponymy, where are you?

My apartment is close by and I often do desk work there and intermittently get distracted by the almost unbearable cuteness of my dog. Sometimes I have to bring her down to Eponymy and separate myself from her because she is too distracting. I spend some time in the city, really only to go to market and showroom appointments or have dinner with my parents or something.  My home away from Eponymy in Brooklyn is my close friend Kathryn’s bar, Weather Up.  We usually meet there weekly for a pow-wow and some shop talk.

Top three places to source items for the store?

For my modern lines I have a few favorite showrooms. I also try to see as much as I can at the shows during market just to get a sense of what’s out there, what’s new and sometimes I’ll pick up new lines. Vintage-wise I buy a lot from this woman in California.  I call her “Crazy Pat.” A lot of people can’t deal with her but I think she is an absolute hoot and holler. She has great stuff though and supplies to a lot of the studio costumers out there.

I’ll go to Brimfield at least once a year with a few partners in crime. We dress like freelance journalists, bring frame packs and carts, wake up early and go hard all day, then spike our lemonade from the stands with vodka at the end of the day.

I also have good luck in random towns across America. I mean, you can find good stuff anywhere if you have an eye, know a few tricks of the trade, and like getting down and dirty in old stuff and exploring dusty corners and dingy barns. And for some reason, not many people like doing that for, like, eight hours a day! It’s definitely an adventurer’s lifestyle.

What will never go out of style?

Interesting question. Tough one. I guess conversation, storytelling, a joke. Of course, as long as people are still around.  A moment when you really make a connection with another human; that’s had to have gone on consistently through history and will continue to do so.

Who is Bianca and how does she influence Eponymy?

Bianca is my best friend and muse, a six-year-old French bulldog. She is the mascot, security detail, greeter and arbiter of style at Eponymy. She is also a model and a socialite and writes her own blog. She’s quite famous, both locally and internationally. She’s been in five or six Japanese publications, was featured on Racked.com and is a general neighborhood landmark.  My friend was waiting with her outside of a bodega the other day while I ran inside to grab something and I heard some little kids outside yelling, “Hey!  That’s Bianca.  Bianca who owns the store!”  And, well, they’re kind of right.

Who are your favorite designers?

Gary Graham, Timo Weiland – so talented both of them.  I love how they both seem to blend all of these seemingly diametrically opposed styles – minimalism, pattern, bohemianism, futurism, classicism – into their collections and it just totally works. It’s what I try to do with my store as well. Something new, something evolved, but also classic.

If you could only wear one outfit for the rest of your life, what would it be?

I have a cream colored quilted dressing robe from the 1940s.  I’d definitely wear that, and as I got older, maybe add in a turban and a monkey on my shoulder or something.

Dream client to dress?

I’m gonna have to go with Meryl Streep. This is for a few reasons.  First of all, she’s awesome.  You can just tell, she’s such a professional and so no bullshit.  But I’d really like to see her in different clothes than I often see her in when I’m at the nail salon and looking at those magazines.  I feel like because she is such a brilliant actor, maybe it’s tough for her to nail her own style because she’s so good at other people’s styles?  I’m just gonna put this out there: apparently I really look like her.  I would say an average of 300 people a year tell me this.  I was actually scouted off the streets of New York by an Agent when I was 16 (he turned out to be legit but still kind of sketchy) who wanted to rep me based on the fact that he thought I could get parts just by looking like a young Meryl or her daughter.  I always think, if the shop doesn’t work out, my plan B is to move to India and become a Bollywood actress under the stage name Cheryl Streep.

Perfect Christmas gift?

I think gift giving is a lovely tradition that can get gratuitous. Since I’m around tangible items all day, I think my favorite gifts tend to be experiences or things I can share with someone or the gift giver…a trip somewhere, a massage, a dinner…something like that. 

JBD’ers, look for more Eponymy later this week when I share the jewelry and artwork from this special shop. You can check out Eponymy in person at 466 Bergen Street, near Flatbush Avenue, in Brooklyn.

Image Credits: Jacqueline Iannacone

Note: This interview was edited and condensed.

Spotlight on Documentaries

This blog has always been a sewing together of ideas. Like a long hand-written letter, I draw inspiration from the roots of a hard-earned, well-rounded career. My first gig out of college as an aide to a U.S. Senator had a profound influence on me. During an election year, it becomes clear my political fervor is alive and well. Politics, like film and fashion, is an expression of the current culture of the planet. An uproar, an uprise, an upset, an unanimous wonder…lets all educate ourselves as best as we can while we breathe in the beautiful air of our country, ’tis of thee…
A way to connect to current culture is to view a documentary. Jared P. Scott, a producer, editor and cinematographer for SPLIT: A Deeper Divide, is a multifaceted man. He not only heads up PF Pictures, but expresses his voice, literally, in a NYC-based band. Go ahead, look a little deeper before November 6th rolls around.
Where did the idea of SPLIT: A Deeper Divide come from? Had you and director, Kelly Nyks, worked together before?

Kelly and I met on SPLIT: A Deeper Divide. Our production company PF Pictures evolved from making films together. We had the stark realization that we can’t possibly tackle the extraordinary challenges we face, ones that we will have to tackle as a nation given their scope and scale, when don’t even talk to those on the other side of the aisle…A sincere desire to talk to Americans of all walks of life and political persuasions led to a cross country investigation, and SPLIT was born.

SPLIT asks the question: “Are we still capable of governing ourselves?”  What do you think?

It most certainly doesn’t seem so with the current gridlock in Washington. If the governing is being done by the career politician inundated by non-stop fund-raising, pandering politics and a winner-take-all-party-first mentality, then we are out of luck. All the major issues of the day: climate change, education and health care, all need bipartisan support and bipartisan solutions. As Harvard professor Lawrence Lessig says, “unless we address the underlying problem, unless we fix this broken institution of congress, we are not going to make progress on any of those fronts.”

Is the polarization of America handed to us on a silver platter by the news media? By politicians?

There is a market for the ideological news media outlets. Most of us are happily complacent re-confirming our world views in what media we choose to consume. I worry about the lack of media literacy as a nation, critical thinking skills, the inability to see other sides of issues, to separate opinion from fact, to understand infotainment from thoughtful reporting, and see/read/listen to things that challenge our world views. Unfortunately, we are on our own here and we should be teaching media literacy in our schools.

How do we go about igniting a real interest in the American political system?

Education. The more informed the electorate, the more they will participate in the process.

SPLIT is being used in schools. Can you tell us about it?

We see documentaries as platforms for discussions on critical issues of the day and nowhere is that more important than for young citizens embarking on their civic life. SPLIT: A Deeper Divide is being donated to high schools in the 50 most divided districts in the country in Partnership with the National Council for the Social Studies. The Lesson Plan “A Journey Across America”, designed in collaboration with the Institute of Politics at Harvard, focuses on discourse and respect for the opinions of others in exploring the different divisive factors in our politics.

What films, editors and directors have influenced you in a positive way? Why?

There are so many. Off the top of my head in the doc world: Errol Morris for his artfulness, Gibney for his ability to crank out great docs, Alastair Fothergill for showing the wonders of nature, Our Daily Bread‘s sobering observational style, Manufactured Landscapes’ thoughtfulness, Eugene Jarecki’s Why We Fight, Yann Arthus-Betrand’s Home is Beautiful, and so on…

If you could interview or document anyone’s life, who would it be?

John Lennon.

What is the next project you are working on?

The Fight, a diagnosis of the dysfunction in American democracy through the lens of health care. And Requiem for the American Dream, a film about inequality and the financialization of America starring Noam Chomsky.

In your opinion, what is the question of the moment to be asked during the Presidential debates?

What is your plan to respond to climate change and create a clean energy future?

What will never go out of style?

Jenny by design.

(Ah, why thank you…)

Image Credit: Courtesy of PF Pictures

Note: This interview has been condensed and edited.

SPOTLIGHT ON OUT OF PRINT

Out of Print hits the spot when it comes to experiencing a long-favored novel in a variety of ways. My elation grew after locking in an interview with Todd Lawton, one of two founders of the company keeping iconic book covers in the mind’s eye of artistic preservation. Good stories and style will never grow old!

The self-description of Out of Print immediately caught my attention: Out of Print celebrates the world’s great stories through fashion. Describe how the idea for the company came about?

My business partner, Jeff LeBlanc, and I always had a real interest in books and reading. We were each fortunate enough to come from families that encouraged that…from an early age we shared that in common. It was really always there, something we always talked about. When we first started seeing how the reading experience was changing to a digital experience we realized something was missing. We wanted to create a company and a brand around the nostalgia of reading.  In the past, when you read a book, you could put it on a shelf. Now that is kind of gone. We are filling that void, a little bit, with a shirt or an iPad cover that says something about who you are as a person or reader.  The art is a fashion statement.

Do you read books from an electronic device or just good old fashioned books?

I do both. It is 50-50. I definitely like the convenience of downloading a book, but I like having an actual book to share with someone or put up on the shelf…the way that it feels when you are holding a book…I still like that.

What was the first book you utilized as product for Out of Print?

The first book we sampled was 1984, in its original cover. It was not intended at the time, but 1984 is actually the year that Jeff LeBlanc, my business partner, and I met while in second grade. It has a bit of meaning. But, it was not intended.

Looking back, is there a piece of advice you wish you had known when you and Jeff started the company? A good lesson you can share?

Jeff is so much better at these kinds of questions! When you are starting a business, you just have to expect that it may be crazy. Crazy in a good way and crazy in a difficult way, but crazy.  Your world is not going to automatically improve when you begin your own business. It takes a motivated person, someone with a flexibility to guide the business in your own way.

Who are your favorite authors?

Right now I’m into Haruki Murakami but my favorite book is Catch 22.

Is Catch 22 a book you feel like you can read over and over again?

There are definitely books I can re-read. Some of Hemingway’s books as well as The Great Gatsby. I recently re-read The Great Gatsby, since high school, and it was interesting to compare what stood out to me then vs. what stands out to me now. It shows a great measure of who you are as a person. For me, a fun way to re-read books is to understand yourself a little bit better.

Out of Print has The Great Gatsby art on an array of product. How do you decide between product and book art?

It’s not a science. We may see something and start it on one product, but move it to another. The Great Gatsby book art is one that works on a great number of products.  We look at popularity as well as how it may fit into a particular collection.

Your social media campaigns have been brilliant. The “Put A Poe On It” was fantastic. Does Out of Print have a digital team creating these campaigns?

From very early on, we felt social media was important for this business. Readers are a community in and of themselves. We want to be a part of that community, drive the conversation, and get people interested and engaged around really cool things related to books. Most of the stuff we post has nothing to do with our actual product. The Put A Poe On It was something our designer came up with around Edgar Allan Poe. And, funny Poe-isms began. It got us excited and we put it up online. We do have a social media and digital marketing manager who works all day, every day, curating the online presence. It is something we will continue to do and will continue to enjoy.

With each product sold, you donate a book to Books for Africa. How did this collaboration come about?

We always wanted to 1) begin a business and 2) use that business to make a statement and bring some good into the world. We are inspired by companies like TOMSBooks for Africa is a partner that allows us to see the actual impact. Their mission matches up to ours’. It is giving people opportunities to read or to love and share the joy of reading. Giving access to people in countries of Africa who need support. The book is a community builder. Books for Africa was under-promoted, and we felt not only could we put books into people’s hands but also bring awareness to their organization.

What will never go out of style?

Reading will never go out of style. Books are timeless.  And, I think that design never goes out of style. With Out of Print, we are fortunate, these book covers are classic, designed from a period that is gone. They are made by hand, and you can sense the connection from the artists to the cover.

What is your favorite place to read a book?

I just moved out to Brooklyn and I love reading on the couch right next to the window. On the weekend there is a really great soft light…

Out of Print originally used 1984’s red colored cover as art for product. // This interview has been edited and condensed. // A special thanks to Mrs. Laura Charecky.

Image Credits: Courtesy of Out of Print

Spotlight on Chris Benz

I first met Chris Benz at a party in January of this year. Immediately, I knew I was chatting with a creative and clever spirit. In between the clinking of champagne glasses, I found myself under his effervescent spell. The magic of the CHRIS BENZ brand is influenced by a rainbow of life, including a throwback love of Lucille Ball to a real-day adoration of the brownstones of Boerum Hill. Mr. Benz bares all on how he prefers to decorate, who he wants to dress, lessons learned, and where he will be later this month when he rings in his thirtieth year.

What captivated you as a child?

I always liked watching old TV shows. I was never really watching new things, like Saved by the Bell. I feel like I was always watching I Love Lucy and The Brady Bunch. All of those old tongue-in-cheek shows.

What will never go out of style?

I feel like the white t-shirt will never go out of style. It is always my default.

Describe your process in creating a new collection. Do you have a method to your madness?

We like to work according to a calendar. That is one of those things as a designer; you have to learn to be creative on a schedule. Fashion week isn’t going to push back if you’re not inspired or whatever. I am always pretty instinctual with the design process and try to pick things and draw things that I like at the moment. For me, it always starts with the inspiration board. Often times, it is more than one inspiration board and we work on these big foam core boards, where we will do pictures from everywhere. Fabric swatches, color chips, trim, a zipper that we might like…all of that goes up on the board. From that, we figure out fabrics, and then I do a million sketches and we edit it down to the actual pieces we want to make….and then we transfer it onto a different set of boards, which is like a big grid. It has all of the fabrics on one side and all these tiny sketches of every single sample going across to every row for every fabric. We really plan out what the collection will look like on those boards. I feel like that keeps it really clean and it is really easy for everyone to understand what is coming.

Who is this season’s girl?

This season is pretty feminine. We really liked the idea of the sickeningly-sweet detailing of things. Little lace bits…the palette is pretty girly with a little bit of a twist.

Have you ever had a creative block? What do you do to cross through it? Especially when you are on a timeline…

Thankfully, that hasn’t happened. I feel like you can be inspired by anything. You could do an entire collection by just picking a time and a place and that gets your brain going.  I feel like it is people, places and things – at least for me. Whenever I come up with a concept, for the inspiration, it always has to be a person and a place and what the person is doing. Every season we try to hit those key notes. 

You have dressed the First Lady and Barbie. Anyone else who would be a big fat YES to dress?

I feel like there are always people you wish were still around (to dress). For me, I would have loved to dress Lucille Ball. I love Carol Channing and Cher…a funny, independent free-spirit.

Your New York Fashion Week invitation is brilliant. Another example of the CHRIS BENZ brand embracing social media. If you could pick only one form of social media to use right now, which would it be?

I’m really into Instagram right now. I work in a visual capacity most of the time, so for me, I feel like Instagram is really, really fun. That is my number one right now. But, Facebook aggregates everything.

What quality would you never want to lose?

Optimism. Particularly in owning your own business, you always have to be optimistic….and move forward. The past is always the past.

What stands out as a strong lesson you have learned in owning your own business?

My biggest lesson that I always have to think about all the time is to remember to do what I want to do. That is why you create things and why people have their own companies; to do it their own way. I always have to remind myself that I can make those decisions, and whatever I decide is the way that it will be.

Song on repeat?

We have been listening to that Lumineers song.

Favorite textile?

I love upholstery fabric. Although, we never get to use it because it is really too heavy for clothes.

Best accessory?

I feel like your hair is your best accessory. At least for me, I have a built-in accessory. You actually don’t need an accessory if you do something fun with your hair. 

Wardrobe piece that is a must-have for both men and women?

A navy blue blazer is the ultimate in day to evening. It looks good with everything. Just put on a navy blue blazer with gold buttons and you are instantly ready for any occasion.

Favorite New York city street or neighborhood?

I’m really into Brooklyn right now. I live in Manhattan, but I have been going on the weekends to open houses. I’m into Boerum Hill right now. It is so pretty. Block after block after block of blocks that look like the West Village. The costume designer from Girls was telling me all about the hipster kids who are heading to the Rockaways. You can buy a little beach cottage…your own one room…

Decorating rule to live by?

In decorating, I am a maximalist. I figured that out living in small apartments in New York. The more stuff you can figure out how to shove in, the more stuff on the walls, the greater your apartment feels. Or, it is my excuse to buy stuff on eBay.

What was your last eBay purchase?

I got some really cool Comme des Garçons shoes for Fall.

Vacation destination?

I never take a vacation!  I haven’t stepped one toe into an ocean or a pool in over two years, I am not kidding you. I love Greece. The only real vacation that feels like a vacation is when I go to Greece.

With fashion week ending just before your 30th birthday, do you have a fun plan to celebrate?

I land in Paris on my actual birthday. It is amazing, but I literally get off the plane and drive to the big fabric fair and have to do an entire day of appointments, in a cubicle, in a convention center. It’s fine…it is another day. If I can muster the energy to do one fun thing in Paris, I’ll probably go for a cocktail at the Meurice.

Image Credits: Jenny by design via Chris Benz

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I think I write for all of us when I say September 10th cannot come quick enough! Check back here next week for more on Chris Benz SS13.

 

SPOTLIGHT ON NARELL DEVINE

With a name as divine as Narell Devine, it is no surprise Firmdale Hotels scooped her up to open their New York City outpost, Crosby Street Hotel, in 2009. Her vivacious way is second to none, for she is a rare combination of beauty, hilarity and sincerity. From a love of Tosh.O to her beloved Oz, Narell dishes on her go-to designers, dream client and a moment spent with Liza Minnelli. She will have you calling up the Crosby in no time.

Where do you call home?

Perth, Western Australia. I just wish it wasn’t so far away!

Home away from home?

Crosby Street Hotel. Ha! I spend a lot of time there – mainly because I can get the closest thing to a home cooked meal – there is never any food in my fridge at home! No, it really does feel like home. I opened the hotel in 2009, so I have a huge attachment to the place and everyone in it.

Dream travel destination?

Anywhere with a beach and cocktails. After living in London for five years, and now having to deal with the NYC winters, I have a rule that I only do beach vacations. Tel Aviv is on my list of new cities to visit next year, it sounds amazing, and I try to head to Mexico whenever I can. Mexico City was one of my favorite vacations, so I want to see the beaches now. Beach + margaritas make me a happy lady!

What do you always travel with? 

My cashmere wrap from 360 Sweater. I get so cold on flights, so I wrap myself in knots in it, it’s so cozy. That and a hydrating face mask for when I get off the plane.

Describe your perfect NYC day.

My mid week days and nights are ridiculously busy, so an ideal NYC day for me is one of complete relaxation. I love starting my day with a fun brunch with friends, which inevitably ends with a spot of shopping.  I spend most summer weekend afternoons lazing in the sun by my rooftop pool with a glass of rosé, a BBQ (the Aussie version of a grill!) and good friends.

A favorite Crosby Street Hotel moment?

This was most definitely the opportunity to look after Liza Minnelli for the day. She was in head to toe sequinned attire, at 11 in the morning! I love that. And it was Liza, I mean…

Who is your dream client?

I really want Daniel Tosh to stay at Crosby. I have a weird crush on him. He’s so geeky, but so funny! I have a long-standing joke with friends that I’ll score a date with him by the end of this year, so it would be really convenient if I could get him to stay at the hotel. Can we send this to him?!

Go-to designer for all-things-work & play clothes?

For work I love Tibi dresses, Equipment or A.L.C shirts mixed up with some Zara basics. In winter I live in jeans and blazers. J Brand jeans, always – I have them in every color and style. For play I love my Aussie designers. Magdalena Velevska is my current obsession; I met her recently and I acted like a star struck school girl which was kind of embarrassing. I also wear a lot of Zimmerman (thank god for the new store in SoHo) and Sass & Bide is my go-to for something fun and colorful.

If you could have drinks with anyone – living or dead – who and why?

I would have loved to have met both or even one of my (paternal/maternal) grandfathers, as I never got the chance.

On a personal note, we are friends…and I’ve been lucky enough to attend your fun dinner parties. What are key elements of a fabulous party?

LIGHTING! I am fanatical about the right lighting. Working at Crosby has taught me that. And flowers, fabulous flowers, lots of candles and lots of champagne! And, of course the right invite list. I like mixing my list up with new and different people who don’t know each other; a good mix of Aussies and New Yorkers make for a loud + fun party. New Yorkers are the best networkers, so it’s great to be able to help connect people.

What will never go out of style?

High heels. They just make you feel instantly sexy, your legs look SO much better in heels (despite the occasional pain) and they give you that girly swagger.

What do you always splurge on?

I splurge on everything, I have absolutely no self control. It’s horrible, but hey, you only live once.

What quality about yourself do you never want to lose?

The ability to laugh at myself and push the boundaries for the sake of a good joke.  Laughter is always high on my agenda and it’s good for the soul!

To be successful in your role at work and in this thing called life….what must one have?

Guts! You just have to whole-heartedly go for it in everything you do, head first.  That, and to some extent, a little “fake it ’til you make it” never hurt anyone.

Image Credits: Jenny by design via Narell Devine / Crosby Street Hotel

 

SPOTLIGHT ON YUNA YANG

With New York Fashion Week around the corner, there is no time like the present to share Yuna Yang. She creates pieces for women which harmonize traditional couture with a modern vision. I am honored to premiere this video content on Jenny by design, with good hope you, too, will embrace the brilliance, humility and beauty of YY. Following the exclusive clip, you’ll find a Q&A with Yuna to satisfy your style-loving taste buds. Enjoy!

 

Where does your work ethic come from?

I grew up as a third generation child in a finance and manufacturing business family, so I grew up learning and hearing about business and entrepreneurship. I learned how to be hard-working, responsible and most importantly, modest and caring toward people from my father and grandfather.

What did you want to be when you grew up?

An amazing artist, eventually like Leonardo da Vinci.

Describe the process of putting together a collection?

I start by gathering season colors which I like to play with…then I choose fabrics and start sketching looks.

From where do you get inspiration?

My inspiration comes from everywhere. Music, movies, books, etc. With this season’s collection my inspiration came from music. I’m creating the collection inspired by music from a rock band called Civil Twilight. I’m creating the look based on the layers and rhythms of the music.

Who are your style icons?

My Mom.

What will never go out of style?

A well-fitted white shirt.

What textiles do you favor?

I love lace. Lace and beading are my favorite materials.

If you could have dinner with any designer, living or dead, who would it be?

Valentino.

When you aren’t designing, what are you doing?

Sleeping!

Who taught you to sew? How old were you?

At 10. I had a class to make the bag with fabrics!

Let’s take a look inside your closet…which dress is your all-time favorite or most cherished?

I have this vintage Etro printed dress from my mom. It is a timeless beauty!

Describe the perfect fall attire for a New York City working woman?

A Burberry trench coat over a black fitted pantsuit and a pair of black four-inch booties to match.

Dream celebrity to dress?

Angelina Jolie.

Favorite New York City restaurant?

Benoit.

Of all the places you have lived, where do you feel most at home?

Milan – I love Italian food, Opera, the language and of course the fashion.

What quality about yourself would never want to lose and why?

Modesty.

 

ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE

Back in the Summer of ’75, two kids got married. They grew together, raised four children and are still lovin’ life and one another. Happy Anniversary to Big Mike and JoJo, my crazy-fun parents. Thirty-seven years and counting!

Love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love.

There’s nothing you can do that can’t be done.

Nothing you can sing that can’t be sung.

Nothing you can say but you can learn how to play the game.

It’s easy.

There’s nothing you can make that can’t be made.

No one you can save that can’t be saved.

Nothing you can do but you can learn how to be you in time – It’s easy.

All you need is love, all you need is love,

All you need is love, love, love is all you need.

Love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love, love.

All you need is love, all you need is love,

All you need is love, love, love is all you need.

There’s nothing you can know that isn’t known.

Nothing you can see that isn’t shown.

Nowhere you can be that isn’t where you’re meant to be.

It’s easy.

All you need is love, all you need is love,

All you need is love, love, love is all you need.

All you need is love (all together now)

All you need is love (everybody)

All you need is love, love, love is all you need.

Lyrics: The Beatles (Lennon/McCartney)

Image Credit: Jenny by design